It's been a long while since I had time to continue the recap of our Myanmar trip, but no worries, I'm on the case! Trying to go back to the whole environment of it all to draw the best memories...
Feel of Mandalay: Slowly developing - This is something u'll definitely understand when u make ur way from the airport into the city centre. Literally from fields of nothing, to one or two temples, to a few huts, to small buildings, n finally to a more populated area. Here's a scene that I don't think I can ever get used to: driving pass cows n over-crowded trucks with human bodies dangling off all sides. U know that there're countries in the world that are still at that stage in their development, but a little hard to digest sometimes how different it really is from "our world". Nonetheless, the locals probably have never seen what the rest of the world is like, n so u don't get the feeling of "isolation" or "disconnection" with them as they don't feel judged. (Let's face it, some country locals hate foreigners with a passion, n most of the time, that's out of defence. Luckily, people here are quite friendly, so no need to feel any way threatened). Honestly, just seeing them smile back at u while u drive by, it's a great feeling.
(hmmm...o-kay?)
City centre, well, is a really confusing atmosphere. Rather than what most of u will picture as "city centre", it's more like a "town", with street vendors n random sales of car parts & household items. It's not like the organized districts that I'm used to anyway. The fun part of this is the surprise of finding a place or a restaurant without actually looking for it. Of course, that's if u have an adventurous personality to try new things. Downside? Everything closes earlier than Yangon! The latest place we were able to chillax at was the ice-cream bar that opened until 9pm. The walk back to the hotel after that was pitch black. I know, u'll probably think, "Why does everything close so early!?" Well, the whole idea of night life is really for those who can afford it. Considering the living standards in Myanmar, not many people will have the luxury of splurging for the heck of it all. That is really in hindsight after all the complaining I did in Myanmar anyway. So, go catch the sunset at Mandalay Hill n plan nothing but to relax in ur hotel room- or pool, but we didn't have one, so meh!
Hotel: Unity Hotel - The hotel was located at a very convenient corner in downtown. The staff were very polite n helpful with our bookings n such. The room was definitely not the best room ever, but it was at least clean. Old furnitures n lighting does create a creepy atmosphere, but if I can survive, I'm sure u'll do fine. Wireless was, once again, available on TN's phone n not my blackberry for the oddest reason. Then again, it was a good thing that I wasn't too connected to the world, or else I'd forget to enjoy the trip with just TN. Breakfast was good with noodles or rice or toast, veggies n fruits. Not a big selection but u'll find something u like. I mean seriously, ur in Myanmar- what do u expect? The lobby's always guarded, so no worries about safety. Oh, do be cautious about phone bills as they do charge u for everything. In our case, they were unable to communicate with our "Balloons Over Bagan" planners n hanged up without connecting them through to us. So, they called them back on our behalf n we ended up paying for the call. Other than that, it was an acceptable place to stay for a few days in Mandalay. Side note: we were very fortunate to have an Indian restaurant right across our hotel that served pretty good chapati at night (sorry, it closes around 9ish too). Nice mutton n hot drinks for those cool nights- worth a visit if ur in that area.
(yumm...chapati!!)
Mode of Transportation: Car, Trishaw, & Walk - Trishaw was quite convenient, except it takes longer. FYI, it's basically a back-to-back two-seater attached to the side of a bicycle. So, this totally man-powered transit can be quite dangerous among the collection of cars n motorbikes on the road. Prices do range from a short trip of 2,000Kyat to a full day of 5,000Kyat. I did feel bad to make use of such a service because our biker was around my papa's age, n really, they shouldn't be doing such demanding jobs. Even so, we can't make that decision for people, n by using his service, he got to earn some Kyats. It's a win-win situation with a hint of disapprovement. Walking had it's perks to be flexible with ur trails, but the city isn't exactly safe-proofed for pedestrians. By car was of course the best method for lazy people, n sometimes for people who are hopeless with their sense of directions. But as always, u get the challenge of negotiating a price, which isn't easy because it's hard to tell what's reasonable when everyone raises the bar. Though, u can get lucky running into a modest driver who won't try to rip u off. Overall, n I can't believe I'm saying this, trishaw was my preferred mode of transportation as it allowed us to enjoy the view n culture without being too tired. Note: please do avoid it if ur in a rush to get anywhere, because it can only go so fast!
(not wanting to be a distraction for other drivers, I sat @ front :P )
Attractions Worth Checking-out: Mandalay Hill, Mahamuni Pagoda, Bagaya Monastery, Watch Tower, Brick Monastery, & U Bein Bridge - Two places that I'd definitely recommend to watch the sunset would be Mandalay Hill n U Bein Bridge. Although the climb was quite long to the top, passing through a few temples n buddah statues on the way, the nice breeze n sunset can be rather calming. U Bein Bridge was a special memory for me, but I'll try to stay objective. It's definitely a place to capture the perfect photo n seeing how many tours make this a must-visit sunset destination, u'd know ur at the spot to be. Among the boats of old couples- once again, we were the youngest- the silence was romantic.
Apart from that, the Pagodas and Monasteries are the must visit places simply to observe the architectural designs of that time n just to soak up the history of it all. Noting Mahamuni, it has a gigantic golden buddah statue that women were not allowed to go near, so being me, of course I got a little offended. But, what can u do in another's country? Nothing. Oh yah, if u do forget to wear appropriate clothing, they do offer longi for u to wear during ur visit. Though, u won't get to pick the design, but no worries, it wasn't too horrible.
(sunset @ mandalay hill)
(ceremony @ mahamuni pagoda)
It's worth noting that the bagaya, watch tower & the brick monastery are on another island called inwa. To get there, u'll have to take a 5 minute boat ride- did I tell u how much I dislike boat rides? Since Phuket, I've enjoyed being on land!- n hop on a horse carriage. Most of the drivers will already know where u want to go, so u don't really have to tell them. Remember, the price for the whole trip shouldn't be more than 5,000kyat. If he's asking for more, just hop on the next carriage. I'm sure someone will be more than happy to take that offer. At this point, we've covered most of the transportation possibilities: car, truck, boat, horse carriage, trishaw n walk. Actually, I wouldn't mind riding a horse, but putting myself in a position where I'll very likely injure myself n in a place like Myanmar? No thanks! But yah, it's quite normal just to accept the price for travel cos honestly, u wouldn't wanna walk that 3-stop tour.
(sure feels like a different time...)
(bagaya monastery...)
(brick monastery...quite the view!)
Of course, that horse carriage cost wasn't included in the "one-day tour" that we were offered on our walk back to the hotel the night before. It was rather scary when he drove up next to us asking if we were interested in a day trip to these pagodas n temples for USD50. At first, we turned him down, but then we thought about how we were already looking to do a day tour n maybe it was a "meant-to-be" kinda situation. So, we took it. Yah, random local car owners run their illegal business of bandwagoning off real tour groups' schedules. Having been on "real tour groups", I can tell it would've been better simply cos they would've done more "explanations" n "story-telling" about these places we're visiting n about the country in general. No worries though, we had our share of fun exploring without "guide"- okay, maybe he's a semi-guide considering he did all the driving n directions. I'll give him credit for that.
Oh, n if a tour offers to take u to have breakfast with the monks, DON'T take it. I mean, no offence to the monks or anything, but it was already uncomfortable for me to be LOOKING at them while they go about lining up for breakfast. Can u imagine how they feel to have around 3 or 4 bus-load of tourists taking pictures of them while they do their thing? Nah, not cool to be on an itinerary. To make better use of that stop, we went to the back of the monastery n checked out the U Bein bridge with the morning view instead. If the tour offers to take u to a weaving factory, that's worth considering cos it was pretty cool to see those girls in action. It takes serious skills n sharp eyes to weave at the speed they do. I even picked up my first longi there! Although it was UDS27 (a lot higher than what u can get on the streets for sure. The last time I asked, a longi was about 3,000kyat?) U could consider that as charity n hope that at least some of the money'll go to the girls who spend days n nights weaving the piece together. In any case, I love my purple n yellow longi!
(look at them gooooooo!)
(sunset @ u bein bridge)
(romantic lunch @ green elephant)